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The Machinist's Second Bedside Reader and the Bullseye Mixture Second by Guy Lautard

Like my previous book, The Machinist's Bedside Reader, this is a book for machinists and gunsmiths, both amateur and professional. All will find something of interest and value herein.

It is assumed the reader has a copy of TMBR. (If you don't, you will probably want to get a copy; references are made in this book to various ideas in TMBR. See inside back cover for details on how to order your copy.)

Comments made in the Introduction to TMBR still apply: I still have many things to learn, and you may not agree with all that I say.

Other than that, little else need be said except "Thank you" to all those who purchased TMBR, and a double "Thank you" to those who wrote or called to say that they enjoyed it. That, and your continued support as evidenced by the fact that you have come back to buy this new book, is much appreciated, and means a great deal to me in terms of personal satisfaction.

Although TMBR 2 is not "the same" as TMBR, I hope that you find it as good or better, for that is what I have tried very hard to make it.

I don't see myself as "the author" (or as "an author" - or worse still, the/an Author), writing something to be handed off to a publisher and that's the end of it. I view each project (this book, or the drawings for Lautard's OCTOPUS, or whatever) more like a visit with all "my guys" - I imagine us sitting around the stove in our collective "shop" at coffee time, talking, and I'm saying "I think you guys might like this... and Oh! Hey - I gotta tell ya about this neat whachamacallit a fella showed me the other day., and lookit the drawings one of the guys down in Arkansas sent us - we can make one of these for doin' (something).. What do you think of it? - I think it's neat." And so on. Maybe that's why I put things the way I do when I write.

NOTES REDRAWINGS

Each drawing in this book, was, in the course of preparation, judged by one standard only: "Could I make this part from what the drawing now shows?" If not, I put some more info on it.

However, it is important that the book text be regarded as an integral part of the drawings. Don't assume that just looking at the drawings, without reading the accompanying text, will give you all the info you need - it won't.

My drawings do not reflect certain drafting conventions, although I realize such exist. It is important for you the reader to know this, and I will explain why:

In industry, normal drafting practice is that if a dimension is given in inches and fractions of an inch, then the tolerance on that dimension is, unless otherwise stated, ±1/32". If the dimension is given as decimal inches to one decimal place, e.g. 5.6", then the tolerance is ±0.01"; if given as decimal inches to two decimal places, e.g. S.62", then the tolerance is understood to be ±0.005"; if given to three decimal places, e.g. 5.625", then the tolerance is ±0.001".... Or something like that.

I do not use this convention. What I do do is expect the reader to have a common-sense understanding of what sort of tolerances would be appropriate for a particular part.

Say you are making the small Pantograph Engraving Machine. The Spindle Arm, Part 9 (page 31), is shown as having an overall length of 11-3/8". Now obviously, ±l/32nd is fine on the OAL. But on the same drawing, the spacing between the several pivot holes is also given as whole inches and fractions of an inch. These holes must be located just as close to the given nominal dimension as possible; it should be obvious, from the briefest consideration of the part these holes play in the finished machine, that a high degree of accuracy in locating them is required. Therefore, here 1-1/2" means 1.500", ±nothing if you can do it.

I often deliberately omit dimensions that are easily obtained by adding or subtracting others that are given. On the other hand, dimensions are not omitted if the reader would have to resort to higher mathematics to obtain them.

If a part appears to be symmetrical about a centerline, then it is, unless otherwise noted. Example: if two holes are shown as 4" apart, and appear symmetrically placed with respect to the part's centerline, then they are each offset 2" from the centerline, even though that info is not given. If it were not so, it would be dimensioned accordingly. All dimensions are in inches.

Radius-ing or beveling of corners is not called out - it is assumed that you will do this as a matter of course. Similarly, I rarely draw in what any machinist would know must be incorporated - a prime example of this would be a relief groove or undercut at the bottom of a hole to take a bearing, for example the ball bearing jockey pulleys for the lathe overhead drive, at page 44. These things are expected to be in the reader's repertoire already.

My Shop: It might be useful for you to know the type and size of the equipment in my shop, as this colors my thinking in describing how to do a job. My lathe is a Myford 'Super 7', which has a 7" swing (10" in the gap), takes 19" between centers, and will not quite pass a 5/8"0 bar through the spindle hole. My mill is a knee-type vertical, with a 6x24" table, Taiwanese made, but quite nice. There's a 3/8" capacity bench drill press, also Taiwanese, which is rarely used. The rest is hand tools.

Wherever you are, and whatever you do in life and in your workshop - power to your elbow, and may your bearings never seize. I hope you enjoy The Machinist's Second Bedside Reader.

August 20, 1988

Guy Lautard

West Vancouver, B.C.

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