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"Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing: How to Set up a Scientific Study in Skin Physiology" by Joachim Fluhr

This cookbook is intended to give basic information regarding skin physiology, the assessment of skin functions in controlled studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments. It provides basic knowledge on how to plan, perform and evaluate scientific studies. The authors are recognized expert in the field and provide comprehensive chapters with specific emphasis on the practical aspects of non-invasive measurements.

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Assessment of skin physiology is moving rapidly away from a purely descriptive approach as we gain a deeper understanding of biophysical and biochemical processes in the stratum corneum, such as those relating to its barrier function and hydration. As a result of research utilizing bioengineering methods, reliable and reproducible approaches are now available for product testing in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry as well as in basic research.

This book examines in detail all aspects of cosmetic testing – legal, general, and practical. After discussion of regulatory and ethical issues and guidelines, essential guidance is provided on the planning, performance, and evaluation of scientific studies in skin physiology. The topics addressed range from laboratory and staffing requirements through to testing devices and methods, factors influencing measurements, and study design.

In addition, detailed information is provided on test settings for a range of cosmetic products. All of the authors are recognized experts in their field.

This book will be invaluable to researchers, students, and medical staff in explaining how best to assess skin functions in controlled studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments.

Contents

Introduction: History and Progress of Objective Skin Analysis

Joachim W. Fluhr

Part I Legal Aspects of Cosmetic Testing

1 Regulatory Aspects - Oliver Wunderlich

2 Ethical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing - Hristo Dobrev

3 Good Clinical Practice - Betsy Hughes-Formella

4 Guidelines in Dermocosmetic Testing - Gerald E. Piérard, Valerie Docquier, Anelavre Schreder, Sophre Neuberg, and Claudine Piérard-Franchimont

5 Claim Support: How to Create and Substantiate Claims - Sinead Hickey and Steve Barton

Part II General Aspects of Cosmetic Testing

6 Testing Laboratory - Oliver Wunderlich

7 Research Staff - Ragna Williams

8 Testing Population - Ragna Williams

9 Testing Devices and Methods - Gabriel Khazaka

10 Factors Influencing Measurements - Enzo Berardesca

11 Study Design - Betsy Hughes-Formella

12 Cosmetic Testing Report - Hristo Dobrev

Part III Practical Aspects of Testing: Typical Examples of Test Settings

13 Moisturizers and Emollients - Razvigor Darlenski and Joachim W. Fluhr

14 Antiaging and Antiwrinkle Products - Razvigor Darlenski, Theresa Callaghan, and Joachim W. Fluhr

15 Products for Impure, Acne-Like Skin - Hristo Dobrev

16 Assessment of Hair Morphology - H. Zahouani and M. Fougère

17 Skin Colour and Pigmentation - Elisabeth Ammitzbøll Holm

18 Characterization of Sunscreens: Determination of the SPF - Juergen Lademann and Joachim W. Fluhr

19 Practical Aspects of Shampoo and Conditioner Testing - Trefor Evans

20 Antiperspirants and Deodorants - Razvigor Darlenski and Joachim W. Fluhr

21 Hair Growth - Tobias W. Fischer

22 Sensory Perception - Gregor B.E. Jemec

23 Practical Use and Significance of Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements - Truus Roelandt, Diane Roseeuw, and Jean Pierre Hachem

24 Compliance Check with On-Site Measurements: Advanced Ways in Product Testing - Gabriel Khazaka

Index

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