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Literature 四库全书·子部·谱录类·茶录
Posted on 2011-01-19
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《茶录》二卷，宋蔡襄撰。襄莆田人。仁宗赐字曰君谟。（见集中谢御笔赐字诗序。）仕至端明殿学士。谥忠惠。事迹具《宋史》本传。是书乃其皇祐中为右正言修起居注时所进，前后皆有襄自序。前序称，陆羽《茶经》，不第建安之品。丁谓《茶图》，独论采造之本，至於烹试，曾未有闻，辄条数事，简而易明。后序则治平元年勒石时作也。分上、下二篇，上篇论茶，下篇论茶器，皆所谓烹试之法。《通考》载之，作试茶录。然考襄二序，俱自称《茶录》，石本亦作《茶录》，则试字为误增明矣。费衮《梁谿漫志》载有陈东此书跋曰，余闻之先生长者，君谟初为闽漕，出意造密云小团为贡物。富郑公闻之，叹曰，此仆妾爱其主之事耳，不意君谟亦复为此！余时为儿，闻此语亦知感慕。及见《茶录》石本，惜君谟不移此笔书旅獒一篇以进云云。案《北苑贡茶录》称，太平兴国中，特置龙凤模，造团茶，则团茶乃正供之土贡。《苕溪渔隐丛话》称，北苑官焙，漕司岁贡为上，则造茶乃转运使之职掌。襄特精其制，是亦修举官政之一端。东所述富弼之言，未免操之已蹙。《群芳谱》亦载是语，而以为出自欧阳修。观修所作《龙茶录》后序，即述襄造小团茶事，无一贬词。知其语出於依托，安知富弼之言不出依托耶？此殆皆因苏轼诗中有前丁后蔡致养口体之语，而附会其说，非事实也。况造茶自庆历中事，进录自皇祐中事，襄本闽人，不过文人好事，夸饰土产之结习，必欲加以深文，则钱惟演之贡姚黄花亦为轼诗所讥，欧阳修作牡丹谱，将并责以惜不移此笔注《大学》、《中庸》乎？东所云云，所谓言之有故，执之成理，而实非通方之论者也。
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